Some people maintain Sichuan food is one-dimensional, all tongue-numbing oily burn and buzz. But that neglects the variety of diverting visceral textures it offers. More than most Sichuan restaurants in Chinatown, Damao is a place with food for lingering over important ideas, gesturing emphatically with denuded duck tongues and chicken feet. This style of eating may be old hat in Chengdu, but in Chicago, it looks like a bright future for Chinese food.